Tempting kebabs, scented biryani, and airy, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has forever been a food lovers' paradise, with inhabitants and tourists equally praising its superb cuisine.
An International Accolade
Last month, UNESCO designated it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – adding it to a prestigious group of international urban centers and kindling hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this designation, it enters a international community of over 400 metropolises across more than 100 countries focused on promoting "creativity as a catalyst of sustainable urban development".
The accolade "demonstrates its profound food heritage and lively gastronomic culture," according to a official from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to earn a spot in this coveted list of 70 global destinations around the world.
A City Defined by Food
The honor for this venerable city arrives as hardly a shock to its inhabitants or avid food lovers. Many echo the opinion that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO accolade, this beloved, bustling, and diverse city – the capital of India's largest state – is at last in the global gaze for what has perennially characterized its heart: an unparalleled passion for food.
"'What's for dinner, the method of preparation' is a constant discussion from waking up until going to bed in many homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are actually assessed by the standard of food that is produced in your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The City of the Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its historic opulent Muslim rulers – is famed for its tender kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were invented, perfected, and raised to exquisite levels in their royal kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were centers of food experimentation, merging Iranian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were developed. The story goes that the mutton galouti was invented to feed an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His cooks processed the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so soft that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the most significant contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, leisurely heat, with the container's cover tightly closed with dough.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
In addition to the well-known kebabs and biryani, the cooks also built up a vast array of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only celebrates local ingredients but also gives the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Almost on every corner, there are little shops and carts – lesser-known treasures that are wildly popular with the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, throngs of people start gathering from early morning at a famous tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, presented in clay glasses, along with incredibly soft buns slathered with freshly churned white butter.
In the morning, one can head to a no-frills joint located in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was set up, the place is still much sought-after for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also offers unique treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert savored in the winter. The process of making it is intricate and complicated. The vendor whisks the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its unique light consistency.
On chilly mornings, street vendors can be seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of but express concern that their younger generation are reluctant to take up the skill.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's rich food legacy positions it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will materialize only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – shaped by family-run food businesses, from humble street carts to busy restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is hoped, will inspire more people worldwide to learn these narratives and experience the city to savour the culinary delights of Lucknow.
